When I first got my first set of acrylic nails, I was afraid I would never get good ones again because I had so many mistakes. As anyone who has ever tried them knows, acrylic nails can be difficult to work with. They are nonsticky and short for nickel plated and require liquid remover to remove any unwanted color that can take shape in the polish.
When looking for a set, I found these guidelines from dermatologist and nail technician Shaz Moore, the founder of Nail Creations, to guide my future nail technician.
1. Choose Correct Nail Forms
For women of color, there are two proper nail forms to choose from: thin “fusing” or folding shapes, and round ones called “firing.”
“If your nail setting gel comes with a design you can easily mold your nail with it. If not, you’ll need to cut out and shape the shape into the gel setting ball, just as you would shape a pizza to fit your pizza cutter,” Shaz said.
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To make the shape, push in both sides of the ball, making sure not to crowd out the center of the shape. Make sure the top of the shape is visible to allow you to fit it into the gel setting and to fill in the placement of the nail after the gel is blended into the nails.
If you have short nails and just want a nice base setting, you can cut out a small triangle from the gel ball. Lay it across your nail, trying to include the top of the shape (as well as the three vertical or triangular areas of the ball).
2. Use Honest Nail Polish
When choosing your nail polish color, always choose the cleanest and simplest red, white, blue, or gray color you can find. Or mix more than one neutral color.
“That way, your manicure won’t shift colors and stains when removed from the gel setting, and you won’t need to polish again. If you are unsure of the color, try some second-hand wax polish from a drugstore. It will look great and will remove your nail polishes,” Shaz explained.
3. Save Any Nails That Are Hard
If you are dyeing your nails, the normal procedure is to expose the application to the bleach. With acrylics, they must be dead (meaning there is no white pigment or it has changed color) before the drying process.
However, this doesn’t have to be the case.
“If there are any nails that are hard before the drying, just wait for your polish to set and then keep them before beginning to dye more nail colors. Using a nail edging tool or a file will be helpful in removing those nails. When using the edging tool, use a light touch on the underside of the nail to remove any hard nails. This removes any dead nails and greatly increases the appearance of the nail,” Shaz said.
If this can’t be done, you can alternatively use a polishing pencil to remove the hard nails. “For the backs of nails, I have found that using a ballpoint pen or the razor blade of a scissors can help with removing nail hardness. Try using a cleaning solution such as acetone or rubbing alcohol to help,” Shaz said.
4. Remove Nails Quickly
Nails that are hard before the gel set should be removed quickly, usually within 30 to 60 seconds.
“While finishing the gel setting, take off your nail polish. If it is too hard to remove, allow it to set overnight for the polish to sink in,” Shaz said.
After the gel is blended, separate the nail polish from the gel, and tap the polish off your nails to remove any remaining residue from the nail polish. Use the sharp tip of a serrated nail file or a vacuum cleaner brush to remove any green, blue, pink, or black residue.
If your nail polish is too wet to be removed, wait until it is almost dry and brush with an acetone-based cleaner, like Burt’s Bees Body Wash ($5.99), to loosen any remaining polish.
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